BLACK AND WHITE ARGENTINE TEGU
Salvator merianae
If your thinking about getting a tegu, you should be informed before making a decision to own one of these awesome animals:
They will become quite large, growing up to 4-5ft long.
Their life span can be around 15-20 years.
They are primarily meat eaters but they will eat some fruit and veg.
They are incredible escape artists.
They are voracious eaters.
They can become aggressive if not handled enough.
In turn, they can become very tame depending on your care and handling.
They exhibit extreme intelligence and will learn quickly. They'll depend on you for companionship but they are said to be the most intelligent reptile on the planet.
They require a large accommodation as they grow into adulthood.
They need to be soaked in room temperature water at least twice a week.
They seek and demand human attention.
HOUSING
HATCHLING STAGE
At least a 40 gallon or these dimensions- 36"Lx18"Wx18"H.
Good substrate such as coco husk coarse chips, orchid bark, aspen shavings or repti-bark.
A water dish- providing fresh chlorine free water- that is large enough for your tegu to soak in.
A hide spot.
A screen lid to provide fresh air.
A food bowl.
A thermometer and hygrometer- to monitor the temperature and humidity.
Provide a hot side (95-110.F) and a cool side (75-85.F).
YEARLING-ADULT STAGE
Now is when I'd build or acquire an enclosure measuring at least 6ft long, 3ft deep, 3ft high with a lid and 3-4ft without a lid. Then this size enclosure could be used throughout the life of your tegu. However, I personally would recommend an enclosure of 8ftx4ft with a height of 3-4ft, depending on if you want to use a lid.
Follow the same guidelines as above for the rest of the housing information.
When your tegu becomes an adult you should still follow these guidelines.
SUBSTRATE
I recommend coco husk coarse chips as a primary bedding, however there are other options such as:
orchid bark
aspen shavings
eucalyptus mulch
repti-bark
eco-earth
Keep in mind that constant cleaning of any type of substrate is required to assure the health and well being of your tegu.
TEGU LIGHTING
UVB lighting or natural sunlight is absolutely necessary. With the absence of unfiltered sunlight, I recommend:
Repti-sun (7.5 or10.0)
Power-sun (100W)
These are available at most pet shops or online. The lighting cycle is complicated but is observed in outdoor tegus. Have a timer set for 4 hours on in the morning, 4 hours off and then 4 hours back on. This mimics their outdoor activity in the wild. If needed you can use a incandescent light or ceramic heater in the cool side, if needed.
HUMIDITY
The necessary humidity levels should be 75-90% to promote shedding and maintain proper health. All substrate should be lightly misted daily to aid in this process. Remember, just a mist, don't soak.
FEEDING
Tegus are primarily meat eaters. However, they have been known in the wild to ingest some fruits and vegetables. Also, as far as feeding in the enclosure or out, there has always been a differing opinion. I feed my tegu in her enclosure. Feeding in the enclosure doesn't promote food aggression, tegus are too smart for that. I, personally, have had better feeding responses and the tegu knows that when I get her out it is for compassion not food. But i would not be against you taking your tegu out for feeding as it is whatever is best for your tegu. It is also worth noting that tegus will accept all sorts of foods, mostly what you eat. Obesity is important in this species, so don't overfeed or offer food that you know would not be good for you. A friend once told me he was sat eating pizza and his tegu was watching him, so he offered it a slice and it was gobbled up with no problem. Now of course I am not recommending this type of feeding on a daily basis, but I am stating that you cna experiment. Your tegu will show you what it likes and what it doesn't. Another thing to make sure of is that the substrate can't be ingested as this would cause impactation thus causing death. I use a plastic plate for feeding.
HATCHLING- EVERYDAY
1/2 or 3/4 inch crickets (gut loaded and dusted)
Meal worms or super worms (heads removed)
Raw ground turkey mixed with calcium powder
Eggs (boiled or scrambled only)
Blueberries (cut in half)
Grapes (cut in to quarters)
Strawberries (cut into small pieces)
Banana (this should only be given in moderation)
YEARLING- EVERY OTHER DAY
Super worms (head removed)
Pinkie mice (once or twice a week)
Fuzzie mice (once a week- skip feeding for two days after this has been fed)
Raw ground turkey mixed with calcium dust
Eggs (boiled or scrambled)
Fresh fish (cut into bite size chunks)
Grapes (cut in half)
Strawberries (cut into quarters)
Blueberries
Tomatoes (cut into quarters)
Banana (should only be fed in moderation)
SUB ADULT (1-3)- EVERY OTHER DAY
Frozen-thawed mice such as fuzzies and hoppers. Judging on the size of your tegu small, medium or large mice can be given.
Raw ground turkey mixed with calcium powder.
Eggs (boiled or scrambled)
Fresh fish
Grapes
Strawberries
Tomatoes
Melons (small chunks)
Banana (should only be fed in moderation)
ADULTS- EVERY 2-3 DAYS
Frozen thawed rodents- medium/large mice or small/medium rats (not large as the struggle with digestion)
Raw ground turkey mixed with calcium powder.
Eggs (boiled or scrambled)
Fresh fish
Grapes
Strawberries
Tomatoes
Melon (small chunks)
Banana (should only be fed in moderation)
HANDLING YOUR TEGU
Handling your tegu the correct way is very important. Do not be too aggressive, but handle it with security. When you pick up a hatchling, don't come over the top of it. The will think your a predator and will not like you trying to lift it. Place your right hand below it by the base of the tail. Slide your hand under the back of the body and gently lift up. Make sure the front legs are then secured by sliding your left hand along the underside until you reach under the front legs. I recommend you handle like this every day. If you handle this way from a baby then it will work all the way up until their an adult, only difference is that they get heavier.
If your adult is not in a very good mood and you need to lift then I suggest:
Wear gloves (welder's gloves)
It would be wise to wear boots or shoes that are thick leather or steel toe.
Grab the tegu as close to the base of the tail as you can (remember these lizards don't drop their tails).
Lift up their tail
Slide your other hand under the belly, beginning at the base of the tail, all the way up to the front legs.
Lift up the tegu, making sure you secure the front and back of the body.
I recommend you tuck the tail under your right arm and secure it to your body.
If the tegu feels secure with the way you lift it then it will want you to.