GREEN IGUANA
iguana iguana
Green iguanas are found throughout tropical and subtropical north and south america. Green iguanas are common in Mexico and South throughout Central America to Paraguay and Argentina. Green iguanas also occur throughout the Lesser Antilles and, in the past 20 years or so, the Greater Antilles and Southern Florida, Green iguanas are an introduced species.
There is a definitive difference in the physical appearance of Green iguanas depending on their locale. First, the Southern Florida, Green iguana population used to have the toxonomic name of Iguana Iguana Iguana. South America Green Iguanas are much less cold tolerant than the Central American Green Iguanas once referred to as Iguana Iguana Rhinolopha. All these subspecies are now synonymous, and there is only one recognised species: Iguana Iguana. Green Iguanas from some parts of Central America have horns on their noses ranging in size from small bumps to quite large flexible horns over a 1/2 inch long.
HOUSING
A 3ft long aquarium will suffice as caging for a baby/young green iguana up until they reach 18 inches long. We acclimate our baby albino green iguanas in this kind of enclosure. If you put a newly acquired small lizard in a HUGE enclosure they sometimes have difficulty finding their food and water. Additionally, these smaller tanks allow green iguanas to understand that you are not a predator that intends to eat them. All in all, a small tank is much better than a large cage for a baby iguana.Â
An adult green iguana needs LOTS of space. That cute little green iguana will grow into a 6ft long dinosaur rapidly with special needs that not an average keeper can always provide.
An adult green iguana requires an enclosure at least 12 feet long by 6 feet wide by 6 feet high. It is very important as these lizards are primarily arboreal in nature. A good rule of thumb is that at least as twice as long as the iguana, with width as at least the same size as the iguana. You cannot house adult males in the same enclosure as they will fight.
The cage parameters and temperature gradients are easier met for an adult iguana in some type of wire enclosure. How you construct or purchase the enclosure is not as important as providing the correct sizing and temperatures needed to house an adult iguana.
SUBSTRATE
The substrates best used for green iguanas are reptile carpet or orchid bark chips, these have worked well for many iguana owners. However, if you see a baby green iguana eating the loose substrate accidentally take this out and replace with reptile carpet. Just be aware that their claws can get stuck to the fibres of the mat but this doesn't often happen. The reptile carpet will need to be hung to dry after cleaning and before being allowed back into the iguanas enclosure.
WATER
Water should always be made available. Remember that smaller green iguanas, may not be able to locate the water bowl. Because of this, it is vital that you mist them daily and soak them at least twice weekly in order to ensure that they are hydrated.Â
If you start with a juvenile iguana. it is beneficial to mist them occasionally as well as putting them in their water bowl.If possible, it is best to provide a water container large enough for the lizard to get into it for a soak. In the wild, green iguanas always live close to water and are excellent swimmer, alternately you can sit them in your bath.
FEEDING
Green iguana dietary needs are easily met with raw natural foods that can be purchased in a super market and commercially prepared "iguana food". Vegetables such as collard greens, turnip greens, dandelions, yellow squash, whole green beans, etc. Are excellent foods for your iguana. Also, provide a fruit about once a week as if their diet contains too much fruit then it can cause diarrhoea.
Food preparation for small green iguanas is slightly different then for adult iguanas. When cutting up raw vegetables, it is wise to cut each piece to the proper size for the iguana to pick up and swallow whole. Remember that they cannot chew their foods easily so they mainly swallow it all whole.
Additionally, there are great commercial foods that are made by ZooMed and other like that are nutritionally sound and that they like to eat. Large green iguanas will pick the dry pieces up and swallow but a younger one may need to have the pellets moistened.
You should add a calcium/vitamin supplement, to the green iguana food about once a week. Under NO circumstances should you give your green iguana a diet that is high in protein. If you do, over time this will lead to renal failure and the death of the iguana.
We also provide live hibiscus plants of the proper size to fit into the enclosure as not only a food supplement but also for the juveniles to climb on. Hibiscus plants can be brought at most garden centres, but remember that these may have been sprayed with pesticides/insecticides. We always spray any new plant with water thoroughly and sit it outside for a minimum of 14 days before allowing it tot enter their enclosure.
​
HANDLING AND TEMPERAMENT
Baby green iguanas generally do not bite, but excessive handling should be avoided until the iguana gets used to its new home. Green iguanas make intelligent, friendly pets. Unlike snakes and many other herps, iguanas have the capability of identifying their care takers, and some have remarkable personalities. Over time they may become quite affectionate and are among the most rewarding of all reptiles to keep.
I implore you to NOT purchase a green iguana on impulse just because they are cute. Unfortunately, baby green iguanas are now so inexpensive they have become what we call "a disposable pet". Many of the green iguanas that are purchased perish because of the lack of knowledge and ability by the keeper. Please think before you but an iguana and remember that as with all animals, they are living things. If you have read this article and still want an iguana as a pet, you will not be disappointed, as green iguanas are one of the finest living reptiles available today.
LIGHTING AND TEMPERATURE
Green iguanas need lots of heat. With a baby green iguana, one heat bulb is sufficient but with an adult green iguana, you need two big heat lights in order for them to adequately heat up their large bodies.
I suggest using incandescent heat bulbs and a double row of fluorescent UV bulbs so that vitamin D synthesis is possible. UVA and UVB should both be provided for optimum results. Strong UV fluorescent lights are needed to prevent metabolic bone disease.
A hotspot of at least 120.F should be provided. Additionally, the heat should come from above the green iguana, so the parietal eye is engaged, thus enabling the green iguana to thermoregulate as required. Located directly on top of the head of green iguanas, behind their eyes, is an unusual scale like organ called the parietal eye or pineal body. This scale like sensory organ can detect light, dark and movement. The parietal eye is important for thermoregulation purposes and to warn green iguanas of predators approaching from above, such as birds of prey.
Of course, parts of the enclosure should be cooler, so the green iguana is able to choose the temperature it likes by thermoregulating between hotter and colder temperatures. A high ends of 120.F and a cooler end of low to mid 80.FÂ works well. The real key is allowing the green iguana to choose it's own body temperature, and all the keeper has to do is provide the means for it to do so.
DO NOT USE HOT ROCKS, HEAT PADS OR ANY OTHER HEAT SOURCE COMING FROM THE FLOOR. Captive green iguanas often burn themselves when substrate heaters such as "hot rocks" are used as a heat source. The reason for this is that the parietal eye is not engages, and green iguanas do not recognise these as heat and attempt to bask. The iguanas legs and stomach are usually burned because they do not realise how hot they are getting. I have seen second and third degree burns serious enough to cause death from using hot rocks as a heat source. Remember these two things very well: provide the adequate size and the adeqate temperature.